Basically weeds grow either from seed, or they reproduce from their roots. As the roots grow outward from the parent plant, new plants sprout up from the lateral roots, creating more parent plants and the process continues and the weeds thrive. Weeds that tend to reproduce from the root are usually more difficult to control.

Weed control facts? Weeds are plants, and they function just like the desirable plants in your yard. They need water, sunlight, and nutrition to survive. Of these three key survival needs, the easiest one for a gardener to eliminate is sunlight. Through proper mulching you can eliminate the sunlight.

But first, let’s look at the steps you should go through before you mulch, then we’ll discuss the best mulching techniques to use. In order for your weed control efforts to be truly effective, you should do everything in your power to make your gardens as weed free as possible before you plant or mulch. There are a couple of ways you can go about this, either organically or with chemicals. I don’t like using chemicals, but I do use them for weed control, and I use them for pest control when necessary.

I’ll discuss organic control first. The first thing you should do is remove all unwanted vegetation from your planting area. Using a hoe, spade or other digging device, undercut the roots and remove the undesirable plants, roots and all. Then you should work the soil by rototilling or turning the soil by hand.

Once worked, let the soil sit for four days or so, and work it again. Keep doing this over and over as long as time permits. This process serves two purposes. It brings the roots that were left in the soil close to the surface so they can be dried by the sun, which will make them non-viable, and it disturbs the weed seeds that have started to germinate, which makes them non-viable as well. The longer you continue this process the more weeds you are eliminating from your garden.

Weed control facts? Depending on the time of the year, there are a few billion weed seeds drifting through the air at any given time, so to think that you can eventually rid a garden of weed seed is false thinking, but at least this process is effective for the remaining roots, which are the most difficult to control.

With that process complete, go ahead and plant your garden. When you’re done planting you can either mulch the bed, or keep turning the soil on a weekly basis to keep it free of weeds. Most people opt to mulch. Not only does mulch help to control the weeds, but if you select a natural mulch it also adds organic matter to the soil which makes for better gardening results down the road.

Before mulching you can spread newspaper (7-9 layers thick) over the soil and place the mulch over top of that. The newspaper will block the sunlight from reaching the surface of the soil and help to keep weed growth to a minimum. The newspaper will eventually decompose, and not permanently alter the make up of your garden. Paper grocery bags also work well, so the next time you hear, ‘Paper or Plastic?’, you’ll know how to answer.

What about black plastic, or the weed barrier fabric sold at garden centers? I don’t like either and I’ll tell you why. For one, neither one of them ever go away, and the make up of your garden is forever altered until you physically remove them, which is a real pain in the butt.

Weed control facts? Plastic is no good for the soil because soil needs to breathe. Plastic blocks the transfer of water and oxygen, and eventually your soil will suffer, as will your garden. It’s all right to use plastic in a vegetable garden as long as you remove it at the end of the season and give the soil a chance to breathe.

Weed barrier fabrics allow the soil to breathe, but what happens is that when you mulch over top of the fabric, which you should because the fabric is ugly, the mulch decomposes and becomes topsoil. Weeds love topsoil, and they will grow like crazy in it. Only problem is, they are growing on top of the fabric, and you are stuck with a ton of problems, like a weedy garden, and a major job of trying to remove the fabric that is now firmly anchored in place because the weeds have rooted through it.

Weed fabric is also porous enough that if an area becomes exposed to the sunlight, enough light will peek through and weeds below the fabric will grow, pushing their way through the fabric. I don’t like the stuff. I’ve removed miles of it from landscapes for other people because it did not work as they had expected.

Weed control facts? Controlling weeds with chemicals is fairly easy, and very effective if done properly. I know that many people don’t approve of chemical weed controls, but millions of people use them, so I might as well tell you how to get the most effect using them.

There are two types of chemical weed controls, post-emergent, and pre-emergent. In a nutshell, a post-emergent herbicide kills weeds that are actively growing. A pre-emergent prevents weed seeds from germinating. Of the post- emergent herbicides there are both selective and non-selective herbicides. A selective herbicide is like the herbicides that are in weed-and-feed type lawn fertilizers. The herbicide will kill broad leaf weeds in your lawn, but it doesn’t harm the grass.

One of the most popular non-selective herbicides is Round-up, it pretty much kills any plant it touches. Rule number one. Read the labels and follow the safety precautions!!! Round-up is very effective if used properly, but first you must understand how it works.

Round-up must be sprayed on the foliage of the plant, where it is absorbed, then translocated to the root system where it then kills the plant. It takes about 72 hours for the translocation process to completely take place, so you don’t want to disturb the plant at all for at least 72 hours after it has been sprayed.

After 72 hours you can dig, chop, rototill, and pretty much do as you please because the herbicide has been translocated throughout the plant. The manufacture claims that Round-up does not have any residual effect, which means that you can safely plant in an area where Round-up has been used. However, I would not use it in a vegetable garden without researching further.

No residual effect also means that Round-up has no effect whatsoever on weed seeds, so there is absolutely no benefit to spraying the soil. Only spray the foliage of the weeds you want to kill. Be careful of over spray drifting to your desirable plants. To prevent spray drift I adjust the nozzle of my sprayer so that the spray droplets are larger and heavier, and less likely to be carried by the wind. I also keep the pressure in the tank lower by only pumping the tank a minimum number of strokes. Just enough to deliver the spray.

Buy a sprayer that you can use as a dedicated sprayer for Round-up only. Never use a sprayer that you have used for herbicides for any other purpose. Once you have sprayed the weeds, waited 72 hours and then removed them, you can go ahead and plant. Mulching is recommended as described above. To keep weed seeds from germinating you can apply a pre-emergent herbicide.

Depending on the brand, some of them are applied over top of the mulch, and some are applied to the soil before the mulch is applied. A pre-emergent herbicide creates a vapor barrier at the soil level that stops weed seed germination, and can be very effective at keeping your gardens weed free. They usually only last about 5 or 6 months and need to be re-applied.

Visit a full service garden center and seek the advice of a qualified professional to select the pre-emergent herbicide that will best meet your needs. Never use a pre-emergent herbicide in your vegetable garden, and be careful around areas where you intend to sow grass seed. If you spill a little in an area where you intend to plant grass, the grass will not grow. They really do work.

That’s what I know about weed control. Read this article several times. Your success depends on getting the sequence of events correct.

By: Michael J. McGroarty

Organic weed control

As far as organic weed control products are concerned, there are a myriad of products using natural oils, soaps, salts, acids, and other natural ingredients. 

Talk Gardening Online » Turning to Organic Gardening

To control weeds, there are number of organic weed control products on the market. Removing weeds daily is the best way to control weed infestation.

An Organic Weed Control Toolbox - eXtension

A limited number of products have been developed that organic growers can spray for weed control. Natural-product herbicides allowed for organic production.

Organic Weed Control

Organic Weed Control Monday, January 05, 2009 - Ehud Rattner Home >> Headlines >> Biology Peralink. Tags: SinalbinweedOrganiccontrolars.

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No matter what kind of climate you have and no matter where you live, you are sure to be spell bounded with lasting greenery around your residence or hotel. Your country’s hot humid climate won’t spoil these faux grass as they are durable, they can also with stand lot of rough usage. It doesn’t matter if you live in a condo or apartment these dramatic looking artificial grasses can be installed in your terrace or veranda and it doesn’t need any watering. When it comes to lawn care and maintenance, companies ensure their clients with long term durability for their waterless grass.

Today’s synthetic grasses are purposely designed for dogs, and canines can enjoy the artificial lawns and at the same time they won’t be able to spoil or damage your artificial turf. The good news for artificial grass buyers is that these synthetic sods are very easy to clean when dogs or felines relieve themselves, but in case if you are using natural lawn, then the task of cleaning is a troublesome chore. With artificial lawns, you can use tools like pooper scooper and then wash off any residues with a hose. These artificial grasses don’t require to be cut and they don’t need pesticides or fertilizers, hence they are very much safe for kids to play over it.

Evergreen lawns will go well with the Arabian architecture, and if you’re running a hotel at a tourist destination city like Dubai, you need to definitely try artificial grass at least once. The synthetic lawns are also suitable to be laid around swimming pools as they are not slippery and they provide good grip. Very recently artificial grass comes in other colors like blue, red, white, yellow and black; these colorful fake lawns can be use for decorative exhibition; where you are organizing a party or any other social event these color artificial turf is very useful and make the surrounding attractive.

By Brayan Peter

Green Desert » Faux Advantage: The Merits of a Synthetic Lawn

Enter synthetic lawns. With a preemptive and initial outlay of money, all of these property management woes disappear. Lawn sprinkler leaks become a thing of the past.

Home Turf Synthetic Lawns

Artificial grass goes by many names: synthetic grass, synthetic lawns, synthetic turf, artificial turf, fake turf, fake grass, putting green, synthetic putting greens.

Synthetic Lawns

http://www.sdhometurf.com. Artificial grass has become very realistic. Our new products will pass for the real thing even on close inspection.

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Create a calendar of clothes to do in your backyard for scheduled maintenance throughout the summer budding spice and respect it is narrowly as time and the weather will allow. Make persuaded this roll allows for upsets such as a week of volley or a week of no stream as well as time to adjust for these inconsistencies and a failure to work in the backyard when temperatures are well over the sign on the thermometer that reads uncomfortably hot. By having a list of gear to do print down in a place where it can be seen it will weigh more closely and be much more prone to be accomplished than if it were out of picture and out of tend.

Make certain you keep your backyard weeded, watered, mulched, and fertilized according to the requests of unique plants within your patch. Check for foliage that are rotating fair and any pruning that desires to happen on a weekly basis. Remove the plants and function wanted biting when needed and subtract all weeds when the opportunity or penury arises. If weeds are suitable a prevalent theme you may want to multiply the quantity of mulch being used in your farming pains.

Trim the areas of your lawn that necessary border to design a more unvarying appearance between lawn and patch. You do not want to flaunt the beauty of your plot because your lawn is looking unshorn and rumpled. Devote a little time to lawn caution to keep your lawn and plot on a consistent climb with each other throughout the summer gardening spice.

Make sure that you precisely consider each factory that you have in your plot and are concerned of any special needs that survive for one deposit over another. If your plants that neediness shade or more water are moreover getting too much sunlight or not enough water you necessary to make efforts to add shade to them and get more water to them throughout the enduring months or you venture behind the investment of time and money you have already made in getting and mounting these plants.

Taking proper burden of your backyard during the summer months can make the fall harvesting route go a lot more smoothly while also serving groom for the planning that will arise in the iciness months early. Learn from the maintenance of your garden and arrange the next garden with the needs you became concerned of this period in brains. Always take time to learn from both your successes and your summer gardening failures for the best feasible results. Learning to hold your garden is the best way to affect about whether you want to challenge a more or excluding ambitious garden in hope growing seasons.

By: James Sawyers

Bio-Grow Liquid Fertilizer Concentrate 1.8-0.1-6.6, 2.5 gallon: J | Garden Facts

BIO-G a7eb ROW ? LIQUID FERTILIZER 1.8 - 0.1 - 6.6 It?s based on 100% organic Dutch sugar beet extract, so it is packed with sugars to build Brix readings in plants. … An all-natural, organic fertilizer?excellent for use on lawns, gardens, flowers, shrubs, and trees. Works in the rhizosphere (root zone) by stimulating roots and improving soil biodiversity. 

Lawn Fertilizer?

I want to try a liquid lawn fertilizer. I’ve only used the granules but think I’d get better results with a spray on like you attatch to a hose. This is for my house, not a commercial application. 

How To Start A Worm Farm | The Garden Site

As long as you provide the right conditions, regularly feed them and drain off the liquid, your worms will continue eating, breeding and providing you with the best natural fertilizer for your garden and plants. Related posts:. Using Worm Tea Worm tea, also known as worm wee, should be diluted… 7 Natural Lawn and Garden Pest Eliminators Love your lawn and garden but hate the thought of… No Dig Gardening.

Earth Juice Bloom Liquid Concentrate 1 quart (32 fl oz): HY | Garden Facts

All the Earth Juice formulas are derived from entirely natural sources. Formulated for vegetables, ornamentals, shrubs, trees and lawns. Designed for soil and. … Earth Juice Grow: (NPK: 2-1-1) is a liquid nitrogen formulation for vigorous green growth. It may also be used as a superior general purpose fertilizer that will provide vigorous growth and outstanding production of flowers, vegetables and fruit. 

The Secret On How To Grow A Healthy House Plants | Gardening | A blog about garddening, landscaping and gardening resources

Indoor palm trees benefit greatly from having fertilizer applied, but this should only be applied during the warmer months of the year when the plant it actively growing. Fertilizers that are applied during the winter time when growing is slower, … You can do supplementary fertilization of plants using a slow-release product, plant pills or a liquid preparation. Liquid mixes are extremely beneficial and are safer except when the plant has been over watered. 

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 It seems that certain species of underground fungus account for the fairy rings. As the fungus grows underground, it consumes various types of organic matter. However, it leaves behind protein and a plant hormone known as gibberellins which lead to fast and lush growth. Because these areas are essentially better fertilized, you get a bright green ring with surrounding sod grass that isn’t quite as bright. Part of the problem with the fungus growth is that it leaves behind mycelium (the ‘root structure’ of the fungus) covering the grass roots that is somewhat hydrophobic. This can make it so the soil has a tough time absorbing water and can leave the grass withered in the center. Some fungus also burns through a significant amount of Nitrogen which is an essential nutrient for the Arizona grass. Without enough nitrogen, the surrounding grass ends up withered as well.

Solving this vexing problem in your sod is probably easier than it seems. There are many home remedies that you should, however, avoid. These include throwing boiling water or vinegar on the ring. If anything, these solutions will make things worse.

If the Arizona sod grass is healthy and growing (not stressed from the seasons), one of the best things you can do is just throw some nitrogen fertilizer on it. This will mask the green ring by making the surrounding grass just as green. You can also take a close tine pitch fork and poke holes around the ring to allow it to accept water. You can then use a wetting agent to get the ground to soak up the water, or you can make your own by mixing one tablespoon of liquid detergent with every five gallons of water.

If none of these solutions bring back your sod lawn, you might want to engage the services of someone who can apply a fungicide like Prostar (flutolanil).

By: Jimmy Habaker

Lawn Sod… - Lawn Care and Landscaping Forum

Lawn Sod… Texas. … It appears you have not yet registered with our lawn care community.

sod lawn showing browning and thinning throughout

The Secret of A Great Lawn Without Needing a Professional You Can Do It And I Can Show You How!!!  

4 Lawn Tips | Lawn Care

4 Lawn Tips for a better lawn. … If you’re cutting regularly, clippings form a thin mulch of rapidly composted and nitrogen-fixing energy, giving nourishment to your green.

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These fertilizers are slow releasing which means that they release their nutrients slowly. In this way it helps grass grow in a proper manner. As the nutrients slowly release into the soil, the roots soak them up and the result is an even carpet of grass. This is also an effective way to control the growth of weeds and they will not get any place to grow.
                 
Soil organisms of Earth are essential for the growth of plants and equally important for grass as well. Without these soil organisms the nutrients of the Earth are of no use for the plants. Only Earth organisms break into nitrates essential elements that are very essential for the grass to grow properly. Besides this, it also protects plants from several diseases and also provides carbon dioxide for the photosynthesis process.

In today’s era, human beings are suffering from the natural imbalance just because of continuous use of chemicals as fertilizers. In order to maintain this balance between organic fertilizers are best suitable. Basically, this type of fertilizer is extracted from natural origins and does not have any type of chemical that could provide harm to the surface of the earth. In fact it does not suppress grass from growing as any other chemical substances do. However, it is not only responsible for growing grass but also helps them stay vibrant and healthy.

There are several other benefits of this fertilizer; here is the list of all those benefits:

Safe for the Human Beings

The basic and the best advantage of this type of fertilizer is that it is absolutely safe for your family and animals. So, if you are unable to stop your family members or animals to play in your lawn, this organic fertilizer if the best suitable for you to keep your child and animals out of any chemical danger, it is totally natural.

It is Bio Degradable

Scientifically, the chemical fertilizers are non- bio-degradable that are affecting the surface of the Earth in very unnatural ways. Approximately every naturally occurring resource on this Earth has the capability to break down and return value to the environment. On the other hand, manmade chemicals are very hard to dissolve in the soil and usually more strong for the soil nutrients. Every man made chemical fertilizer contains several compounds that are not only originally poisonous bit also divided into multiple poisonous substances. However, organic fertilizers are totally, bio- degradable. This not only dissolves into the soil easily but also has more than double effectiveness than the chemical counterparts.

Less Wastage

It is a tendency of chemical fertilizers to kill everything that comes in contact with them like unwanted ants, dandelions. Additionally, they also kill several helpful organisms like earthworms, bees, and beneficial micro organisms. This could affect the health of the plants and grass in your lawn.

So, organic lawn fertilizer is very good for your garden.

Simon is a gardening enthusiast and has written many lawn care related articles to aid gardeners get the perfect lawn and avoid costly mistakes.

Learn where to get the best deals for scotts lawn care products, which is a popular website that provides tips and advice on where to go to save money on craftsman lawn mower parts.

By Simon Mann

Organic Lawn Fertilizer Beautify Your Lawns

They are toxin free unlike the man made fertilizers. Another benefit of using organic lawn fertilizer for your lawns is that they are safe for your family. 

Lawn Statues A Gardens Centerpiece « Scotts Lawn Fertilizer

Learn where to get the best deals for scotts lawn care products, which is a popular website that provides tips and advice on where to go to save money when buying Scotts Lawn Fertilizer.

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Tree and bush fertilization is particularly crucial in urban and suburban areas of the country where soils have been changed due to building. These urban lands incline to be heavily compressed, poorly oxygenated, poorly drained, and short of organic matter. Even where soils haven’t been stricken, fertilization is possibly needed as part of a sustainment program to step-up plant vigor or to improve root or crest growth.

Trees and shrubs in residential and commercial landscape plantings are frequently fertilized to keep them healthy and attractive. Over-fertilization is prevalent, causing excessive growth, especially on young nursery stock. Trees growing in lawn areas usually receive some nutrients when the grass is fertilized. This is usually sufficient to maintain most trees in fertile soil. However, fertilization may be desirable on altered soils where unconsolidated fill material has been added or the topsoil has been removed. Managed urban areas where fallen leaves are taken off may also require a fertilization regime to enrich soil and replenish nutrients.

Plant nutrition is no stand-in for environmental factors, such as sunshine and water, which must be in equilibrium if a tree or bush is to acquire its full potential. Trees or bushes that are healthy and flourishing are more insusceptible to assault by insects and diseases. An application of fertilizer might, in a few cases, improve the plant’s resistance to additional infestations of certain pests. For instance, maple trees will recoup from mild cases of Verticillium wilt after applications of nitrogen fertilizer.

Fertilizer Objectives

How and when to fertilize landscape trees and bushes hinge upon:
Sustainment aims (induce new vs. maintain existing growth)
Tree and bush ages (in general more for newer and less for older plants)
Plant strain levels

When to Fertilize

The best time to fertilize trees goes from late autumn, after the leaves have come down, through the winter and into early spring before new growth comes about. Fertilizer employed in the autumn has a lengthier period of time to infiltrate the soil enabling the roots to more efficiently assimilate it. The fertilizer is soaked up by the roots during the winter and is accessible to the plant for growth in the spring.
Trees that are rapidly developing should be fertilized annually. Well-established, adult trees usually call for fertilizer once every three to four years.

Newly Planted Trees Fertilizer Use

Newly planted trees usually do not need fertilizer during the first growing season. Most transplanted trees developed in the nursery have high levels of nutrients that last through the first growing season. Too much fertilization during the first year can damage the tree and reduce its rate of growth. After the first year, nitrogen can be applied in an approximately 3ft area around each tree. This will ensure a sufficient supply for continued growth. Do not apply fertilizer within 12 inches of the stem of the tree because fertilizer can burn and harm young stem tissue.

Determining the Need to Fertilize

Visual inspection of trees and shrubs is often the best overall factor to use in making fertilization decisions.
Look for:
Poor leaf color (pale green to yellow)
Reduced leaf size and retention
Premature fall coloration and leaf drop

Soil Test

18 nutrients are required by plants: carbon,oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassiu , calcium , magnesium, sulfur and 9 trace minerals: iron, boron, copper, manganese, molybdenum, zinc, cobalt , nickel and chlorine. Carbon , oxygen and hydrogen operate in the formation of plant cells and food fabrication, the first two furnished from the atmosphere and the latter received from water soaked up by roots.

A soil test furnishes specialised data on the potential for plant reaction to agricultural limestone and to phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. In addition it provides a verifiable basis for ascertaining how much of those elements to add once they are found to be lacking. A representative soil sampling can be a challenge to get, because most nutrient-absorbing roots of trees and bushes are in the upper six inches of the soil and may stretch out two or three times beyond the radius of the crown. Consequently, in determining the nutritional demands of trees and shrubs, it’s also essential to look at soil and moisture conditions; the species, age and vigor of the plants; and previous fertilization.

Nitrogen, the most typically depleted soil nutrient, furnishes the greatest growth response. Unfortunately, soil tests or analyses for accessible nitrogen are not very dependable. Nitrogen is present in different forms (e.g. nitrate, ammonium, urea) and these forms can alter rapidly in the soil. All the same, overall tree growth, especially root and shoot elongation, leaf color and leaf size, can be heightened with increases of nitrogen. Be sure not to overfertilize with nitrogen. Don’t overcompensate with greater amounts of nitrogen when fertilizing grass, bushes and trees. Nitrate leaches readily from numerous soils and can create water pollution problems.

Selecting a Fertilizer

A variety of fertilizer types exist:
Complete (N-P-K) vs. incomplete (one or more select nutrients)
Organic vs. inorganic
Fast release vs. slow release
Dry (granulated, pelletized, spikes, pulverized encapsulated) vs. liquid

To help determine the type of fertilizer to apply, consider the following: type of plant, time of year, desired rate of plant reaction, application methods and equipment cost, proximity to water sources, effect of soil type and pH, type of deficiency, and results of a soil test or other sampling method.

Nearly all landscape plants profit from a slow secreting nitrogen fertilizer that can be organic or inorganic. Remember that nitrogen is easily washed through the soil, but phosphorus and potassium are not, signifying they necessitate less frequent application.

Methods of Application

Fertilizers may be put on either directly or indirectly for plants. When sod is fertilized, tree and bush roots that stretch into the sod area absorb some of the fertilizer, and are consequently indirectly fertilized. Sod fertilization rates should be supplemented only if trees and bushes are demonstrating symptoms of nutritive deficiency.

Direct application of fertilizer may involve incorporation into the backfill soil or placement in the planting hole at planting time. However, the most common form of direct fertilizer application, broadcasting, is generally the most effective, especially relative to cost. Simply placing the desired fertilizer over the soil atop the tree and shrub roots and watering it in is usually adequate. Compacted soil should first be aerated or raked.

The most serviceable and expeditious way to fertilize sizeable trees is to disseminate granular fertilizer on the surface of the dirt and permit rain or irrigation water to move the nutrients down to the roots. Uniformly disperse the fertilizer over the area to be fertilized - that expanse covering the outer two-thirds of the distance between the tree trunk and the drip line and extending at least 50 percent of the crown radius beyond the dripline.

Another method is to put granular fertilizer into holes in the soil that are 4 to 12 inches deep. These holes are dug in a regular pattern at 2- to 3-foot intervalsl, in the same area as broadcast fertilizer is applied. Divide up the fertilizer among the holes. This technique does not insure consistent coverage to all feeder rootsl, especially in the upper few inches of the soil surface where the majority of the roots occur. High concentrations of fertilizers in these holes can also injure roots located bordering the hole.

A commonly used commercial method is to inject  into the soil. A special injection rod is used and the fertilizer solution is injected under pressure. A comparable probe mechanism called a ‘root feeder’ is sold at most garden centers. The long probe attaches to a garden hose and water-soluble fertilizer cartridges distribute nutrients and water directly into the tree root zone. The tip of the injection needle should be inserted 4 to 12 inches into the soil at 2- to 3-foot intervals. Fertilizers suitable for liquid injection are typically more expensive per unit of nutrient and are frequently more difficult to apply than granular fertilizers.

Spikes are additional choice for tree or bush fertilization. These are rammed into the soil with a heavy hammer and can only be employed effectively when the soil is damp. The spikes don’t evenly broadcast fertilizer around the tree’s or bush’s major feeder roots. Tree spikes are a pricey choice. Their popularity is founded on simplicity and ease of application.

Foliar feeding is a quick-fix solution when a nutrient deficiency has been found. The leavesl, buds and green wood are capable of a little nutrient absorption. Foliar nutrient sprays are applied with a pressure sprayer or siphon sprayer attached to a garden hose. The greening from foliar spraying is fairly quick but not long lasting. More often than not deficiencies of micronutrients including ironl, boron or manganese are corrected by seasonal foliar applications.

Micro-injection is the straight injection of essential nutrients into the trunk of the tree or shrub. It is a customary commercial practice for relieving or invigorating trees showing stress or decline symptoms. Nutrients can also be placed in gelatin capsules and set in in holes in the tree trunk. Micro-injection research is relatively limited and results are often conflicting. Drilling holes, implanting or injecting fertilizer and sealing holes can lead to trunk disfiguration and decay. Foliar applications, injections or implants should only be considered when soil application of fertilizer is not viable. These measures are considered short-term cures for nutrient deficiencies and pest infestations. Ultimately, the proper soil and foliar applications must be engaged for a long-term cure.

Placement of Fertilizer

Fertilizer shouldn’t be focused around the base or trunk of a tree or bush, but should be put on as much of the plant’s root zone as feasible. For trees and bushes, fertilizer ought to be put on an area double the crown spread. Because most landscape plant roots grow in the top foot of soil,shallow, not deep application, is suggested.

Factors Affecting Fertilizer Uptake

Many factors affect how well and well trees and shrubs absorb fertilizers. The most important uptake factors are:
Fertilizer form (inorganic, fast release, or liquid forms are absorbed faster than organic, slow-release,or dry forms)
Soil type (clay particles and organic matter soak up or bind more nutrients than sand, so fertilizer application needs to be more often in sandy soils, but with lower rates each time due to leaching potential)
Soil moisture content and soil warmth (nutrient uptake is faster in moist warm soils)
Plant vitality (plants under stress are less able to take up available nutrients due to damaged or reduced root systems)

Timing of Application

Fertilizer should be utilized when plants require it, when it will be most efficacious, and when plants can readily accept it. Late summertime and early autumn fertilization may hasten new growth that is not winter hardy, and summer drought could interfere with nutritive uptake, but spring, fall, and wintertime applications are satisfactory. A split application might be advantageous, applying half the annual rate in early spring and the balance in the fall as or after plants go dormant.
If water is unavailable, don’t fertilize altogether - plants will be unable to assimilate the nutrients. (During a dry time of year, fertigation - application of fertilizer by means of an irrigation system can be beneficial.)

Tree and bush fertilization comprises only one part of aggregate plant maintenance. Fertilization might not benefit a plant if it’s under stress from inadequate soil aeration or drainage, sodden soil, deficient light or space, or excessive pest problems. Altogether factors determining plant growth should be kept at optimal levels to guarantee plant vigor.

By Marie Wakefield

Meredith Nursery Weblog

Organic matter can be added to the soil by growing a green manure crop which is dug into the soil about six to eight weeks after planting, this is an excellent way of introducing a lot of organic matter into the soil very quickly. … The crystals absorb the liquid fertilizer and moisture and provide the plant with both nutrients and moisture. Soil Wetting Agents.

The Secret On How To Grow A Healthy House Plants | Gardening |

Organic manure and fertilizers can be extremely helpful, but some such as blood and bone are not the best idea because they produce a bad odor and draw animals to the garden. You can do supplementary fertilization of plants using a slow- release product, plant pills or a liquid preparation. Liquid mixes are extremely beneficial and are safer except when the plant has been over watered. 

The Advantages & Disadvantages of Liquid Lawn Fertilizer 

Organic liquid lawn fertilizer is derived from animal and plant sources, and it is highly beneficial to the soil (not to mention the environment). There are few disadvantages when it comes to organic liquid lawn fertilizer. 

How To Start A Worm Farm | The Garden Site

A typical household’s waste is around 40% organic matter. Things like fruit and vegetable scraps, food scraps, tea bags and coffee grounds. All this can be recycled by worms and turned into beautiful, rich, chemical-free compost which you can use… … As long as you provide the right conditions, regularly feed them and drain off the liquid, your worms will continue eating, breeding and providing you with the best natural fertilizer for your garden and plants. 

Vermont Organic and Eco Intelligent: A Few Good Things 

In addition, waste bacterial sludge generated from the treatment process is dried and used as a great organic fertilizer. Vermont Organics also maintains an environmentally friendly solid waste program. We routinely collect and recycle … Made from saponified organic coconut, olive and jojoba oils, essential oils, organic aloe vera and rosemary extract. Works best in warm to hot water. 

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Synthetic Characteristics
Synthetic fertilizers are generally much higher in Nitrogen. It is the Nitrogen that will give your lawn a rich, deep green color. It will also cause your lawn to grow more quickly. However, synthetic fertilizers also have a high salt content, which takes away from the moisture in the soil. Synthetic fertilizers generate fast growth and quick green up.

Synthetic weed control is generally included in most synthetic fertilizers, thus the term weed and feed. Weed control using synthetic herbicides is relatively easy and shows quick results.

Organic Characteristics
Organic fertilizer is much lower in Nitrogen and much lower in salt. Organic fertilizer feeds the microbes in the soil, which break down nutrients so that the grass plants can readily take in the nutrients. Organic fertilizer is low in Phosphorous as well, which is good to use around water sources, as phosphorous leads to algae growth. Results are slower and growth is more even when using an organic fertilizer.

Organic weed control is limited to corn gluten meal. Corn gluten meal products are more expensive than synthetic herbicides and must be re-applied over several years to be effective. However, weeds become less over time with an organic service due to the increased density of the turf.

Which fertilizer is right for you?

Reasons to chose synthetic:
want a near perfect lawn
results in a relatively short period of time
less expensive.

Reasons to chose organic:
personal safety and environmental concerns
willing to wait for the lawn to develop and weeds to be squeezed out
longer lasting results

In a nutshell
Synthetic fertilizers and herbicides concentrate on the visible growth while the organic fertilizers and soil amendments concentrate on the soil quality and root structure.

By Beth Comer Organic farms unknowingly used a synthetic fertilizer Some of the biggest organic farms in the country may have unknowingly used organic fertilizers spiked with ammonium sulfate, a synthetic fertilizer banned from organic farms. What is Organic Lawn Fertilizer? Have you already spent hours reading labels on the bags of lawn fertilizer trying to decide whether to use a synthetic fertilizer or an organic lawn fertilizer?  Truly Beyond Organic : Piercing The Veil If we wanted to rid the world of synthetic fertilizer use… the extra land we’d need for cover crops or forage… would more than double, possibly triple, the current area of farmland.

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Organic Mulches:

There are so many ideas for the best material with which to mulch; one that is particularly effective is kelp meal. Kelp or seaweed is a great source of trace minerals and growth elements. Just apply 1 pound per 100 square feet at any time during the growing season. Adding seaweed triggers an increase in microbial activity and fuels the decay cycle of organic matter in the soil.

Some of the most commonly used organic mulching materials are manures; bark chips, sawdust, grass clippings, leaves, and newspapers (shredded or in layers). Organic mulches allow some flexibility in fertilizing and watering since they can be raked back from the plants. They should normally be applied uniformly 2 or 3-inch (5cm-7.5cm) deep around the base of the vegetable plant.

Inorganic Mulches:

Black plastic is the most frequently used inorganic mulch. Clear plastic is of little use, as it does not exclude the light that aids weeds seeds to germinate. Gardeners should make sure there is adequate moisture in the soil before any mulch is applied. There are also several durable weed fabrics that are very effective in weed suppression. The decision of whether to use organic or inorganic mulch really depends on the season of the year and what the gardener is trying to accomplish. Organic mulches should be applied after the soil temperature has warmed in the spring. If applied to cold soils, the soil will warm slowly and the growth rate of most vegetables will be reduced. Inorganic mulches can increase the soil temperature by at least 6 to 80F. therefore, their greatest value is early in the growing season when soils are naturally cool.

Leaf Mould:

Even if you don’t have a compost bin you can still make compost from the fallen leaves. Simply collect the leaves and put them into a black plastic sack, place them somewhere out of sight in the garden and forget about them until later the following year, when you will have some rich compost to spread around the garden.

It takes at least a year to compost down the leaves, depending on leaf-type: beech or oak leaves decompose readily, but waxy leaves take much longer. (Sycamore and London Plane in particular take years to rot down) Also warm, wet, weather conditions promote faster leaf decomposition.

Once fully decayed, there should be no whole leaves present in the leaf mould. If it contains debris such as twigs, it should be put through a coarse sieve. The leaf mould can be added to potting compost (1 part leaf mould to 4 parts potting compost), or used liberally in the garden as plant mulch, or dug in to improve soil structure.

By: Juliet S Sadler

Lawn Care Season is Rapidly Approaching

I recommend Scott’s Turf Builder with Moss Control. In the past, we had a moss problem to due drainage and winter shade but using Scott’s the moss died quickly (and mostly came up with a lawn mowing) and grew in the bare spots long.

Your guide to organic pesticides…&…Who do you trust to protect your health?…And More | Spray Advisory

Scott’s Turf Builder Weed Prevent – A natural pre-emergent selective herbicide made from 100% corn gluten meal, effective on both crabgrass and dandelions - releases nitrogen as it breaks down. Limitations: It needs to be applied in early spring (before weed …. so may only be suitable for application to the lawn anyway. Having a mower with an additional mulching blade will facilitate the processing of clippings into organic fertilizer. 

Selecting A Lawn Fertilizer | Home Construction Improvement

So when I looked more at the Scott’s brand fertilizers I found that the Scott’s Turf Builder WinterGuard Fall Lawn Fertilizer has a ratio of 22:2:14. This is as close as I can come with Scott’s brand fertilizer to a “high:low:high”.

The Fool Proof Way to Fertilize Your Lawn | Life and Lawns

We had someone doing our lawn care until last year when I started doing the Scott’s thing. I decided to try it myself when the neighbor’s yard who used Scott’s looked better than mine that I was paying to be done. … The caption says “DIY Lawn Tips Advice, Turf is Life”. Is that turf grass? I’m thinking of changing out my lawn at some point.

So, You’ve Burned Up Your Lawn… Now What? « I Fought The Lawn

If you’ve burned your lawn up with fertilzer, one of two things has happened: you’ve either used the wrong fertilzer, or you haven’t spread the right fertilizer correctly.

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Properly fertilizing your lawn should be one of the simpler and less time consuming processes in your lawn care program. While you could get very technical about it, the basics you need to know are not as complicated as they might appear to be. However, listening to some lawn care professionals and gurus explain detailed processes and equations might leave you a bit confused about the whole deal.

How much to fertilize, how often, when, and what formula to use are all the right questions. However, because of all the different variables ranging from soil type to location to hundreds of grass varieties, it’s impossible to give an exact lawn care program that would fit every lawn.

Testing the soil isn’t usually necessary for determining lawn fertilizer needs. If you’re having trouble growing a lawn, testing may be helpful to figure Ph and to see if a nutrient level is extremely high or low. Otherwise, they don’t give a good indication of the amount of nutrients your lawn needs.

You generally only need to be concerned with the three basic nutrients of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium. Other minor nutrients such as iron and zinc are usually plentiful in the soil. However, in some instances such as my own yard, I do apply one application of fruit and nut tree food to the entire lawn every few years. I have several trees that take these nutrients from the soil. Still it’s not common practice and isn’t necessary in most yards.

The right formula? I can’t give an exact. Just a guideline. The three numbers on the label (0-0-0) represent the product percentage of the three nutrients in order, Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium. A good mixture would be high in Nitrogen, low in Phosphorus, and medium in Potassium. An example might be 10-2-5. This is one of those areas that can get technical. However, if you’re not inclined to study up in this area, just keep applications low and safe. Keep Nitrogen, the first number, at 20 or below.

As my own rule for staying on the safe side, and in my opinion is a better way to feed a lawn, cut the amount in half and apply it twice as often or even less often. For some nutrients, plants will absorb all that is in the soil until it’s gone, grow very quickly, and deplete the soil before it’s time to fertilize again. A continuous feed is much better for the health of the lawn, reduces the risk of burning, and is easier to get an idea of what feeding program your specific lawn needs.

Again, all of this can’t be placed in a given formula for all lawn types. When to fertilize, of course, depends on your area, time of year, weather. Your soil type (clay, sand, etc) will influence many factors including how often and how much to fertilize. So it’s best to follow the steps of starting with less and working your way up. It also helps to keep a journal to keep track of your results.

By: Steve Boulden

Amelia Island Living.com New Florida Law Bans Certain LawnFertilizers

One way to do this is to agree to fertilize lawns and landscapes properly. This should not reduce the quality of the lawns, in fact, we are confident it will benefit the lawns.

DIY: March Lawn & Garden To-Do List - Danny Lipford

If needed, feed lightly with a balanced fertilizer. Aerate and dethatch cool-season lawns only if absolutely necessary; otherwise be gentle – since lawns are delicate in spring.

Any advice on taking Georgia Applic fef ators Test for fertilizing lawns?

Forum: Fertilizer and Pesticide Forums Posted By: Dawsonville Post Time: 02-24-2009 at 10:53 PM.  

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Like all wise marketers, organic fertilizer distributors have learned that the best way to sell their product by combining loads of information with interesting displays and well-planned advertising campaigns. Cross-merchandising and educational marketing are two of the best sales strategies any organic fertilizer manufacturer can put into play.

Many organic fertilizer shops and garden centers rely on product displays to increase their sales bracket. The strategy in play consists of catching the consumer’s attention by placing entire product lines in one expansive display. Other suppliers will scatter displays throughout the store to increase product presence and encourage people to buy. Another popular sales strategy is the careful placement of organic fertilizer products amid the plant department. For example, you might see a potted rosebush with a small display of organic fertilizers next to it. In doing so, the shopkeeper indicates that the fertilizer will indeed encourage flowers to bloom.

Organic fertilizers are typically differentiated by their N-P-K formulations. A variance in these formulations helps to determine the specific area of use the product is most suited, whether it be fruits and vegetables, flowers, lawn care or turf grass. For example, organic fertilizers with N-P-K formulations of 6-2-2 carry a high Nitrogen content, and are best suited for lawn grass. By advertising this fact, organic fertilizer dealers are able to educate their customers and ultimately increase their bottom line.

The colours and packaging materials used can also be used to create a good sales strategy. More and more organic fertilizer manufacturers have repackaged their products, choosing to use plastic instead of brown paper in an effort to improve their sales. Organic fertilizers wrapped in bright resealable plastic bags and plastic containers are certainly much more attractive, and catch the attention of more shoppers. Sharp, eye-catching floral photography on organic fertilizer bags will also attract consumers, luring them with the notion that their flowers will look every bit as beautiful if they use this particular product.

Another important part of the marketing plan is advertising. With a successful ad campaign in magazines, newspapers, radio or television, the supplier can increase sales, and the manufacturer can increase productivity. Also important in the advertising process is consumer education. Telling potential buyers what the product is, and how it is used, will also help to increase sales. Consumers generally prefer not to purchase products that they have little or no knowledge about. Organic fertilizer producers and marketers are advised to offer informative packaging, giving shoppers the chance to learn more before they buy.

In 2002, many organic fertilizer manufacturers reported an increase in their sales. For example, the Scott’s Company reported a twenty percent increase in retail sales of its organic fertilizers and lawn plant food products. According to vice-president of lawn marketing Gordon Hecker, the Scott’s Company was able to achieve this boost in sales without making any changes to their organic fertilizers products. The increase came about due to marketing strategy and improved in-store material display.

Green Light is another organic fertilizer manufacturer that experienced double-digit increases in their sales. The company, based in San Antonio, Texas, has concentrated on marketing their specialty organic fertilizers and plant foods with all-weather displays and plastic packaging.

The trick to making a profit in organic fertilizer sales is really no trick at all. Just apply the basic rules or marketing, and watch your sales grow.

By: Mary Miller

Organic Fertilizer Sale « MWV LOCAL

Organic Fertilizer Sale. March 6, 2009 by Kate. The Corvallis Tilth Organic Gardening Club is holding an organic fertilizer sale during the first three Saturdays in March. 

UCSB Groups Sells Organic Fertilizer - Daily Nexus

Compost junkies have opened a 2cc8 whole new can of worms on campus - literally.   

New Product: Lady Bug Brand Organic Fertilizer and Soil Amendments

We are excited to be carrying the Lady Bug Natural Brand of organic fertilizers and soil amendments. This brand of fertilizers (other than being awesome because it is an organic fertilizer.

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